How to Choose the Right Leather Jacket for You
Choosing a men’s leather jacket comes down to four factors: leather type, fit, hardware, and how much warmth you need. Get those four right, and the style choice is mostly personal taste.
| Factor |
What to look for |
Why it matters |
| Leather type |
Full-grain cowhide or sheepskin |
Cowhide resists abrasion and scuffs; sheepskin is softer and lighter from day one |
| Fit |
Shoulder seam at natural shoulder point, sleeves to the wrist bone |
Leather doesn’t relax the way fabric does, so a bad fit stays a bad fit |
| Hardware |
Smooth-pulling metal zips (YKK-grade), snap buttons with firm engagement |
Hardware is usually the first part of a jacket to fail |
| Warmth |
Unlined for mild weather, quilted or shearling-lined for cold |
Determines the actual temperature range the jacket covers |
| Size range |
XS to 5XL, with custom sizing on nearly every style |
Wider range and near-universal custom fit means less need for alterations after purchase |
Fit matters more than anything else on this list. Measure your chest at its widest point before you buy. If you land between two sizes, size down. Leather softens and gives slightly with wear, so a jacket that fits loose on day one will still fit loose a year later.
Leather Grades Explained: Full-Grain vs. Top-Grain vs. Genuine Leather
Full-grain leather is the uppermost layer of the hide, left unsanded so the natural grain and pores stay visible, and it is the toughest and longest-wearing grade you can buy. Top-grain leather comes from the same upper layer but is sanded smooth and sealed with a finish coat, trading some durability for a more uniform, consistent look. “Genuine leather” is a separate, lower grade made from the leftover splits after the top layer has been removed, and despite the reassuring name it is the least durable of the three, typically cracking or peeling within a few years.
| Grade |
What it is |
Typical lifespan |
How to spot it |
| Full-grain |
Top layer of the hide, unsanded, natural grain intact |
20 to 30+ years with care |
Visible pores and slight texture variation; a water drop is slowly absorbed rather than beading up |
| Top-grain |
Top layer, sanded and coated for a smoother finish |
10 to 25 years with care |
Uniform, consistent surface; a water drop beads and rolls off the sealed coating |
| Genuine leather / bonded leather |
Lower splits or scrap leather bonded with polyurethane |
2 to 5 years before cracking |
Perfectly even, almost plastic-looking texture with a repeating, artificial grain pattern |
Tanner & Thread’s collection uses full-grain and top-grain cowhide and sheepskin throughout, with no bonded or scrap leather anywhere in the range. Worth noting for comparison shopping: many retailers use the phrase “genuine leather” as a reassurance that a product is real leather, when in industry terms it specifically names the lowest grade of real leather. Full-grain and top-grain are the terms that actually indicate quality.
Men’s Leather Jackets by Style
Tanner & Thread’s collection breaks into six core silhouettes, and each one suits a different use case.
Biker Leather Jackets
Biker jackets use an asymmetric front zip, wide lapels, and multiple exterior pockets, the most recognizable leather jacket silhouette in the collection. The Aero Distressed Brown Leather Biker Jacket is cut from distressed sheepskin for a broken-in look straight out of the box, priced at $190. Browse the full Mens Leather Biker Jackets collection for more asymmetric-zip styles.
Cafe Racer Leather Jackets
Cafe racer jackets keep a band collar and a clean zip front with no extra hardware, the minimalist option in the lineup. The Vortex Black Leather Cafe Racer Jacket is cut slim from cowhide leather with a snap-tab racer collar, at $150. See the full Mens Cafe Racer Leather Jackets collection.
Bomber Leather Jackets
Bomber jackets use a centered zip, a rounded ribbed collar, and ribbed cuffs and hem, the most relaxed style here. The Apollo Black Classic Leather Bomber is made from sheepskin with a minimalist cut, at $170. Shop the full Mens Leather Bomber Jackets range.
Motorcycle Leather Jackets
Motorcycle jackets are built with riding function in mind: heavier full-grain cowhide and reinforced panels at the shoulders and elbows.
Aviator Leather Jackets
Aviator jackets carry a shearling or fur collar and a boxier cut, descended from military flight jackets. They run warmer than a standard biker or bomber.
Casual Leather Jackets
Casual leather jackets trade heavy hardware for a cleaner, tailored cut that works over a shirt or under a coat.
Looking for something longer than a jacket? The Mens Leather Outerwear collection covers full-length leather coats for men, including Leather Overcoats in the same full-grain and sheepskin leather used across the jacket range.
Cowhide vs. Sheepskin: Which Leather Should You Choose
Cowhide is the tougher, more abrasion-resistant leather. Sheepskin is the softer, lighter leather. This collection carries both.
| Leather |
Feel |
Best for |
Share of the collection |
| Cowhide |
Thicker, stiffer at first, breaks in over months |
Biker and motorcycle styles, daily wear, riding |
55 of 164 styles |
| Sheepskin |
Soft from day one, lighter weight |
Bombers, cafe racers, casual and tailored cuts |
107 of 164 styles |
Color follows a similar pattern. Black leather jackets make up the largest share of the collection at 107 styles, followed by Brown leather jackets at 41. Smaller runs are available in white, grey, dark brown, red, and blue for anyone who wants something outside the two standard colors.
What is the best leather for a men's jacket?
Full-grain cowhide is the most durable option and the standard choice for biker and motorcycle jackets, since it resists abrasion and develops a patina with wear. Sheepskin is softer and lighter, better suited to bombers, cafe racers, and tailored casual styles. Tanner & Thread uses full-grain or top-grain leather across the entire collection.
How long does a leather jacket last?
A well-maintained full-grain leather jacket typically lasts 20 to 30 years, since the leather doesn’t break down the way bonded or synthetic leather does. Regular conditioning every 3 to 6 months keeps it from drying out and cracking. The leather also softens and develops a personal patina the longer you wear it.
How should a mens leather jacket fit?
The shoulder seam should sit at your natural shoulder point with no bunching across the back, and sleeves should end at your wrist bone with arms relaxed. The chest should feel snug, not tight, since leather doesn’t stretch the way fabric does. Size down if you’re between two sizes.
How much does a men's leather jacket cost?
Sampled styles in this collection currently run from about $150 to $190, with several original list prices as high as $299 before markdowns. Price mainly reflects leather type, hardware, and lining — cowhide and shearling-lined styles typically cost more than unlined sheepskin. Check the product page for the exact price on any style.
How do I care for a men's leather jacket?
Condition the leather every 3 to 6 months to keep it supple and prevent cracking, and wipe off surface dirt with a slightly damp cloth. Store it on a wide, padded hanger away from direct sunlight, never folded. Avoid dry cleaning — use a specialist leather cleaner instead for deep cleaning.